There are
several ways that you can reduce runoff and better use stormwater in your yard
while ensuring proper drainage. One relatively easy and attractive method is a
rain garden.
Let Nature Inspire You
In the
natural hydrologic cycle, stormwater slowly infiltrates into the soil. There,
it is naturally filtered and cleansed of some pollutants, is used by plants and
replenishes the water table. Stormwater also falls directly into water bodies
or gradually reaches them over land or through the shallow water table.
In
contrast, stormwater runoff in settled areas usually flows quickly from hard
surfaces, such as roofs and driveways, into sewers that eventually empty into
water bodies. The increased volume and frequency of high flows can cause
erosion and related sedimentation in receiving lakes and rivers. Along the way,
the water also picks up polluting substances, such as de-icing salt, grease,
oil, animal wastes, excess sediments, pesticides and fertilizers. In areas with
combined storm and sanitary sewers, the system can sometimes become overloaded,
so that untreated sanitary sewage overflows into natural water bodies. All of
these factors can harm water quality, habitat for aquatic species and the
stability of shorelines and riverbanks. They also increase municipal costs to
convey and treat stormwater.
There is
a growing trend towards designing municipal stormwater systems to work with
natural processes. These systems involve the use of wetlands and other methods
that allow water to soak into the ground, filter pollutants and slow the flow
of water before it enters water bodies.
Rain
gardens are one way that you can reduce runoff and let stormwater soak slowly
into the ground in your home landscape, just as it does in nature. Rain gardens
are shallow depressions or low-lying areas that are designed to capture and
absorb stormwater fairly quickly and dry out between rainfalls. When planted,
they can also provide habitat for birds, butterflies and other fauna.
Steps in Designing a Rain Garden
Rain
gardens are relatively easy and inexpensive to design and build, but there are
a few considerations to ensure that they function effectively. The two most
critical technical considerations are:
- Water must infiltrate and
not stand in the bed for more than two days.
- Water should not create
drainage problems on your property or neighbouring ones.
Beyond
that, rain gardens can be naturalistic or more manicured, can include a variety
of plants, and can be in various shapes.
Find a Suitable Location
Observe
the drainage area and paths along which stormwater naturally runs in your yard.
Place the rain garden at a low point or at a location somewhere along the
natural flow path. If your yard is relatively flat and evenly drained, you can
create a depression anywhere, following the guidelines below.
To ensure
that water will not simply run over the lower edge, rain gardens need to be as
level as possible. If possible, avoid slopes greater than 12 per cent, as they
will make it more difficult to create a level garden. If you have no other
choice, you can cut and fill a steeper area, as described in the “How to Install a Rain
Garden”
section, but you will need to ensure that the sides are adequately stabilized.
How to Measure a Slope
Slope is
the ratio of the length of the rise (the vertical change) to the length of the
run (the horizontal change). Here is a simple way to measure slope:
- Place a carpenter’s level on
a 2 x 4 wooden board situated on the ground along the slope you want to
measure and lift the lower end until the board is level (see Figure 3).
- To determine the rise,
measure the distance from the ground to the bottom edge of the board at
the end of the slope.
- The run is the length of the
board from the end to where you measured the rise.
- Divide the rise by the run
to obtain the per cent of the slope. For example, if the rise is 5 cm and
the run is 2.5 m the slope is 0.05 m ÷ 2.5 m = 2%.
Drain Water Away From Your House
Ensure
that stormwater is directed away from your house foundation. Follow the tips in
Chapter 4 of CMHC’s Landscape Guide for
Canadian Homes. The
Guide also describes drainage considerations around your main activity areas
and neighbouring properties.
Rain
gardens do not work well on clay soil because drainage in clay is slow. Look
for a spot with soil that is sandy, gravelly, loam or a mix that can include up
to 10 per cent clay. If your soil has a higher clay percentage, you can add
sand, fine gravel and/or organic matter to improve permeability.
Compacted
soils are also relatively impermeable, so you will need to loosen them before
building a rain garden. Ensure that the soil is permeable to a depth of between
0.6 – 1.2 m (2 – 4 ft.) below the rain garden. Refer to "Get to Know Your Soil" in CMHC’s About Your
House series for tips on analyzing and amending your soil.
The
surface of the depression should be at least 1 m (3 ft. 3 in.) above the
seasonally high shallow groundwater table. To determine where the shallow water
table is, in dry weather dig a small test pit and see if it fills with water.
Or, you can ask if your municipality has information about your neighbourhood’s
shallow water table. If the shallow water table is close to the surface, find a
location on higher ground or abandon the idea of a rain garden.
Along
with catching water from other areas in your yard, rain gardens are often
designed to capture roof runoff via a downspout extension, a swale or an
underground pipe. If you want your rain garden to capture roof runoff, look for
a convenient location.
Locating
your rain garden in full sun or partial shade will let you choose the widest
selection of plants. You can consider a shady area if you select plants that
are tolerant of shade. If your preferred location has trees that can tolerate
occasional flooding, a woodland rain garden is an option.
An
existing depression in your yard could function as a natural rain garden. If
needed, you can make some enhancements, such as replanting with suitable plants
or adjusting depth or size so it can hold more water. If the depression tends
to hold water for more than two days, you will also need to improve the soil's
drainage capacity as discussed above, or find another location with better
drainage.
Determining
the ideal depth and size for a rain garden is not an exact science, and various
authors suggest different methods. Your rain garden will likely function well
if you make a reasonably accurate estimate of the two most critical factors —
the amount of stormwater that will be captured (inflow) and how quickly it will
be absorbed. The depth and sizing method described below is based on these two
factors.
The
depression will need to be shallow enough to ensure that water will not stand
for more than two days, but deep enough to hold the anticipated amount of
water. A general guideline for depth is 7.5 cm (3 in.) in soils with relatively
low infiltration rates (for example, loam) and up to 15 cm (6 in.) in soils
with high infiltration rates (for example, sandy or gravelly soils). To ensure that
there is adequate space in shallower depressions, the size of the garden will
be adjusted for various soils, as discussed below.
To
determine the size, follow these three steps.
1. Determine Inflow
i.
Estimate
the area in square metres of the section of your roof that will drain into the
downspout, plus the area in square metres of other hard surfaces, such as
driveways or patios, that will drain into the rain garden. Next, estimate the
area of lawn that will drain into the garden and multiply that figure by 20 per
cent1. The size of the roof area plus other hard surface areas plus
20 per cent of the lawn area draining into the rain garden is the total
drainage area (in square metres). For example, the total drainage area might be
170 m2.
- Estimate the amount of precipitation that will
flow into your rain garden over a 24-hour period. Some municipalities set
rainfall capture targets, so check with your municipality’s public works
department. If there isn’t a municipal target, set your own based on
average local precipitation. Your municipality may have precipitation data
for your region; if it doesn’t, this information can be obtained from
Environment Canada. An example of a target is 25 mm over 24 hours. Targets
will vary from region to region and can be as low as 5 mm over 24 hours.
- Multiply the drainage area in square metres
(Step i) times the rainfall capture target in metres (Step ii). For
example, a rain garden that will capture 25 mm of rain over 24 hours from
170 m2 of drainage area must hold 170 m2 x 0.025 m =
4.25 m3 of water over 24 hours.
2. Determine the Infiltration Rate of Your Soil
For
example, if the rate is 15 mm per hour, it will absorb 360 mm of water over 24
hours. Convert the figure to metres (in this case, 0.36 m). See text box.
3. Calculate the Area
Divide
the estimated inflow (Step 1) by the infiltration rate (Step 2). Using the
example above, the rain garden would need an area of 4.25 m3 ÷ 0.36
m = 11.8 m2.
Knowing
the permeability of your soil is essential when installing a rain garden. Sandy
soils are highly permeable with a minimum water absorption rate of 210 mm per
hour. The minimum absorption rate for sandy loam is 25 mm per hour. For loam,
the minimum absorption rate is 15 mm per hour. In clay soils, absorption rates
can be as low as 1 mm per hour. You can test the permeability of your soil by
digging a small test pit, filling it with a known quantity of water and observing
the time it takes for the water to be absorbed.
Rain
gardens are designed for average annual precipitation levels. Occasionally,
there will be a heavy rainfall and, less often — once every 25 to 100 years —
an extremely heavy rainfall. Occasional overflow of your rain garden will most
often be accommodated by your own yard and the municipal storm system. If there
is any possibility that overflow could cause drainage problems in neighbouring
areas, include an overflow system. This can be as simple as an in-ground
perforated pipe or shallow swale that is directed towards a less vulnerable
area, or an area that drains into the municipal storm system. You can also
reduce the frequency of overflow by slightly increasing the size of the rain
garden or the depth of permeable soil, or both.
Although
following the steps for sizing will give you the optimum size, you can change
the size to better suit your yard, your budget or maintenance. You can reduce
the size by increasing the depth of permeable soil, decreasing the area that
contributes to inflow, or creating more than one rain garden.
Determine the Shape
To
capture as much stormwater as possible, a rain garden should be at least 1.5
times longer than it is wide (length is defined here as the face at a right
angle to the slope). The 11.8 m2 rain garden in the example above
should measure approximately 4.2 m x 2.8 m. Again, if site conditions do not
allow for the optimum size, you can adjust as needed.
Many
people prefer the appearance of soft, round edges to hard, square edges, and
kidney or oval shapes, but you can create any shape that suits your taste and
your yard.
Select Plants and Stones
Select
perennials, shrubs, grasses or ferns, or all, that can tolerate both wet and
dry conditions. Choose plants that are adapted to your region and your specific
soil and sunlight conditions. Native plants are well adapted to local
conditions and are therefore generally preferred for rain gardens. Non-native
plants can also be used, but avoid invasive species (see "References and
Resources").
For an attractive garden that will bloom for much of the season, also bear in
mind plant heights, colour and bloom time. See the plant list in CMHC’s Landscape Guide for Canadian Homes for help choosing plants.
You can
install herbaceous plants (species that are not woody), like perennials, as
plugs, potted plants or seeds. Plugs or potted plants will create an instant
garden and are easier to grow and more predictable than seeds. Seeds don’t cost
as much, but it can take up to three years for the garden to fully fill in. A
seed mix can be customized for your conditions, or you can use a shoreline or
wet-dry meadow/prairie mix if your local native seed supplier offers it. You
can plant shrubs from pots, as bare root seedlings and, in some cases, as
cuttings.
Or, you
can line the bottom of the rain garden with loose, hard materials, such as
pebbles or river stone. A stone-lined rain garden will mimic a stony stream
bed, adding a unique feature to your yard (see Figures 4 and 5). You can also
include plants in a stone-lined rain garden. To add esthetic appeal, edge the
pond with materials such as brick or stone. You can also add a focal element,
such as a large rock or a sculpture.
How to Install a Rain Garden
The best
time to build a rain garden if you are working with plugs or potted plants is
mid-spring, after the thaw, when the soil is most likely to be moist and fairly
easy to dig. Plants will benefit from spring rains. Although you can build a
rain garden in summer, you may need to water the plants far more often until
they are established.
If you are seeding the bed, the best time to install your rain garden is mid-spring or late fall. Seeding in late fall allows the natural, freeze-thaw cycles to work. They help many native seeds germinate without pre-treatment. Ask your seed supplier if any pre-treatment of native seed is required for spring sowing. Shrubs can be planted in either spring or fall, depending on the species.
If you are seeding the bed, the best time to install your rain garden is mid-spring or late fall. Seeding in late fall allows the natural, freeze-thaw cycles to work. They help many native seeds germinate without pre-treatment. Ask your seed supplier if any pre-treatment of native seed is required for spring sowing. Shrubs can be planted in either spring or fall, depending on the species.
Begin by
laying out the shape and size of the bed with a rope or garden hose. Remove
existing lawn with a sod cutter, garden spade or edging tool, being sure to
remove all pieces of root. If you have enough lead time, you can smother grass
or other plants with heavy black plastic anchored down with rocks and left on
for at least two months during the previous growing season. Remove the plastic
before digging the bed.
Call Before You Dig
Before
digging any test pits or depressions in your yard, locate buried wires and
pipes. Call your local service providers for assistance.
Dig the
bed to the required depth, as described earlier in the “Determine Depth and
Size”
section. Remove any remaining roots of former plants or lawn. If you need to
improve the drainage of the soil beneath the surface, continue to dig and add
other amendments, such as sand, fine gravel or organic matter, to a depth of
0.6 – 1.2 m (2 – 4 ft.). A small backhoe can be helpful if you need to dig
beneath the surface. To help the new plantings establish themselves, add
compost and work it into the top few inches of soil.
If you
dig into a slight slope, use a carpenter's level to help you keep the bed
level. Soil from the higher side of the slope can be used as fill for the lower
side. On a slope, you will also need to build a low berm along the lower side
of the slope edge to retain the water (see Figure 5). The berm can be constructed
with soil that you removed from the upper side and covered with a variety of
plants or lawn. Gently slope both sides of the berm and compact it by stomping
on it. Sod, seed or plant the berm immediately and temporarily cover with a
straw mat or straw mulch to prevent erosion.
You can run a roof downspout extension directly into your
rain garden. To prevent erosion, install a small bed of pebbles or a concrete
splash pad under the end of the extension.
If
needed, dig and install an overflow pipe or swale on the lower side of the
garden. You can place your downspout extension in the garden. To prevent
erosion in the garden, place a small bed of pea gravel or decorative pebbles,
or a concrete splash pad, under the extension (see Figure 6). Or, the downspout
can discharge onto a lawn area that drains into the rain garden.
Rake the
bed so that it is fairly smooth. Use standard planting or seeding methods. See
CMHC’s Landscape Guide for
Canadian Homes for
advice and tips.
If you are covering with stone, place a layer of filter fabric on the surface, then place the stone. To plant among the stones, slit the fabric.
If you are covering with stone, place a layer of filter fabric on the surface, then place the stone. To plant among the stones, slit the fabric.
Minimize Impermeable Surfaces
To reduce runoff and beautify the property, the homeowners reduced the size of their driveway by more than 60 per cent by replacing it with plantings. They changed the material on the remaining driveway from asphalt to precast concrete pavers.
Minimizing
the amount of impermeable surface area on your property is another way to
reduce stormwater runoff and allow water to soak into the ground. You can start
by limiting the number and size of hard surfaces to only those needed for your
household's regular activities (see Figure 7). You can also combine various
uses on hard surfaces. For example, a driveway or patio can double as a
footpath.
You can
also use porous paving materials that allow infiltration. Where possible, use
loose materials, such as decorative pebbles or crushed brick. Where you need a
firmer surface, consider using precast concrete pavers with wide gaps. They are
designed specifically for stormwater infiltration. Also fill gaps between patio
stones or pavers with sand or fine gravel instead of concrete.
On
driveways, you can install two strips of paving spaced for the wheels of your
car or other vehicles, and plant grass or a low groundcover in the spaces
between the strips.
How to Maintain a Rain Garden
Keep the
soil moist during the first growing season. If there is little or no rain, you
will need to water with a one-hour trickle at least once a week for the first
three weeks. Subsequently, water during hot, dry weather. Plants grown from
fall seeding will also need to be watered in drought conditions the following
season. If you have selected plants that are suited to the soil and moisture
conditions, plants in the rain garden should not need to be watered once they
are established.
For the
first two or three years, you will need to remove weeds regularly. Some
desirable native plants may migrate to the site, so try to identify the species
before you remove them. You can hand-pull weeds, being careful not to disturb
new plantings. Pull weeds when they are immature, before they go to seed. Weeds
are easier to pull when the soil is moist. Once the garden has filled in and a
root mass has formed, you won’t have to weed as often.
Once the
rain garden is established, you can occasionally add compost. Plants that are
adapted to sandy or gravelly soil tend to prefer nutrient-poor conditions, so
compost should be added only if it appears necessary. To control insects and
disease, it is best to use low-impact manual or non-synthetic controls whenever
possible. For more information on maintenance, refer to "References and
Resources" or
to CMHC’s Landscape Guide for
Canadian Homes.
Aerate
the soil occasionally to ensure it does not become compacted. If over time you
find that water is standing in the bed too long, the easiest solution is to
make the garden larger or create a second rain garden to catch some of the
water. You can also make the depression deeper or further amend soils to
improve permeability, but both of these options will require removing and
transplanting plants.
Once established, your rain garden should provide many years of enjoyment with little maintenance. You can derive added satisfaction from knowing you are contributing to a healthier natural environment.
Once established, your rain garden should provide many years of enjoyment with little maintenance. You can derive added satisfaction from knowing you are contributing to a healthier natural environment.
